Etro's 'Halo' Collection Feels Airy but Unfocused
After Marco De Vincenzo's exit, Etro's in-house team presented a spring 2027 collection titled "Halo" that aimed for a light, airy interpretation of the brand's codes. The lineup moved from powdery morning hues to darker evening tones, featuring boho dresses, faded paisley prints, and crochet pieces. Critics found the collection lacking cohesion and fashion substance despite its reassuring signatures.
The collection marked the first full ready-to-wear season under Etro's in-house team following Marco De Vincenzo's departure, following a pre-collection that had focused on reasserting the house's foundational codes. "Halo" was structured around a day-to-night arc, opening with soft, powdery morning shades before deepening into aubergine tones for evening wear.
Signature Etro elements appeared throughout, including diaphanous frilled dresses carrying the label's 1970s bohemian spirit and paisley motifs rendered in faded treatments across caftans, windbreakers, and tonal-patched suede or denim jackets. Crocheted dresses, ruffled shirts, jacquard trousers, and slip dresses were also woven into the lineup, though reviewers noted the airy presentation lacked the cohesive fashion direction the brand has historically commanded.
This transition period at Etro could signal broader shifts in how heritage fashion houses navigate creative leadership changes, particularly when relying on in-house teams rather than high-profile designers. The collection's reception may influence consumer confidence in the brand's direction and affect buying decisions among retailers and fashion-forward shoppers who look to Etro for distinctive bohemian luxury. How the label resolves its creative leadership question could shape its market position in coming seasons.