Hermès Debuts Arceau Cheval Natté Watch With Silk-Thread Dial
Hermès has introduced the limited-edition Arceau Cheval Natté, a watch whose dial uses silk-thread marquetry designed by Tong Ren. The 38mm piece features a horse motif rendered in red, cobalt, ochre and green threads, with diamonds set into the composition and bezel. It is powered by the in-house H1912 calibre and continues the Arceau collection's history of artistic dials.
Hermès’s limited Arceau Cheval Natté translates a design by Tong Ren, a Chinese-born, Finland-based industrial designer, from an initial homeware sketch into a 38mm watch. The horse’s head breaks into geometric fragments, with red, cobalt, ochre and green silk threads forming a marquetry scene.
The dial uses almost 400 hand-placed silk threads, each positioned at an angle to interact with light, plus 123 diamonds; another 70 diamonds ring the bezel. Champlevé engraving lets the stones sit inside the silk composition. The in-house H1912 calibre is visible through a sapphire case back, and the watch comes in beige or dark brown dial versions with beige or black alligator straps. Price £79,000.
This release could strengthen demand for craft-led limited editions among affluent collectors, while reinforcing Hermès’s position at the intersection of fashion, art and horology. It may encourage other watchmakers to explore textile-based dial techniques and collaborate with designers from outside traditional watchmaking. Because the price and limited availability place it beyond most consumers, its broader social effect may be cultural rather than widespread: it could keep artisanal skills visible and valued, mainly within luxury circles.